Welcome to the Subscribers’ Armour Gallery J – L
Each submission has a ‘gallery’ of thumbnails which you can click on to see an enlarged image along with some short text describing the model – enjoy!
After a few years, last year after the 2018 North Shields Model Show I decided to make the car better, and a more realistic colour for an RAF car in 1943/44.
So I made new windows, headlights, and mirrors.
The result that I found much better…
Hope you like it! Gerhard La C.
The Canal Defence Light (CDL) was a weapon developed around a carbon arc lamp which was intended to illuminate enemy positions at night. The lamp could also be used much like a strobe in order to blind and disorientate enemy troops. The CDL was developed in great secrecy and the designation ‘Canal Defence Light’ was used by the British to divert attention from its real purpose and to draw as little attention as possible to the new vehicles. The Americans used the term ‘Shop Tractor T10’ and referred to the turrets as ‘coastal defence turrets’ for the same reason.
The British mounted their lights on Matilda and Churchill tanks while the Americans chose the Lee which carried a 75mm gun in a sponson in the hull allowing the vehicle some offensive capability.
The secrecy with which the system was developed turned out to be an issue when it came to deploying the vehicles operationally. Few commanders had even heard of them, let alone knew how to use them and had therefore not factored them into their plans.
The vehicles saw limited operational use during World War Two notably in holding the Ludendorff Bridge against German attempts to destroy it following its capture in 1945.
The Takom kit is of a light mounted on the M3A1 Lee which had a cast hull which makes a change from the rivetted hull vehicles more readily available to modellers. The kit was easy to build, though I found that care had to be taken with the etched brass light guards. Luckily Takom provides two small jigs for shaping these which would probably serve for other models as well.
There are markings supplied for three vehicles, but these are all essentially the same being in overall olive drab. Transfers are provided for large aerial identification stars to be placed on the turret roof and engine deck. I thought that there was little chance of me applying these without the carrier film silvering and so I attempted to cut my own masks based on the kit transfers. This proved to be beyond me and I ended up with a twisted and completely unusable pile of tape! I ended up using brass masks that I acquired years ago. Not being able to burnish these down onto the surface of the model the stars ended up looking a little ‘fuzzy’, but I felt that this was not too noticeable under some washes and weathering.
All in all, this was a quick enjoyable project and I think that the kit can be recommended to all fans of ‘something a little different’.
ABER photo etch (PE)
Weathering: Oils, MIG pigments.
Glad you like it,
The model background base on two pictures from “Combat History of s’Pz Jg 653” by JJF and “Panzer Wrecks Vol3” Jagdtiger (P) “115” commanded by Lt. Hans Knippenberg operated in it’s last position. Northern Schwetzingen, Germany, 30 March 1945 before knocked out.
Hope you all like it!
I was given this kit as a present but at the time was concentrating on WWII German armour, however an interest in modern tanks piqued my interest and I decided to give it a go.
What can you say about Tamiya kits that hasn’t been written about? Fabulous engineering and an ease of construction, had the basic hull and turret built in a few hours and ready for primer. Once the primer was dry and I had looked for any imperfections it was ready for camouflage.
I wanted to do something different and had a look at winter improvised schemes. The ones I came across didn’t really inspire me so I decided to embark on my own take on it.
Once I had sprayed the green and brown pattern, I lightened the colours and sprayed on the higher panels to give a slight colour difference. I then applied an off white colour in a wavy pattern to break up the standard colours to replicate a form of winter whitewash for manoeuvres.
I left it to dry thoroughly for a few days and then it was time of weathering.
My aim was to recreate a tank after being on exercise. I opted for thin colour washes built up over a few days and various oil paints to replicate the streaking.
Pigments were added to the running gear and wheels to give it a muddy look.
The only added extra was carbon fibre aerials.
One of my bad ass looking models. I really like the look of this thing.
A quick build but lots of fun weathering.
Weathering: oils, AK stuff for mud.
Picked up this kit at a contest several years back so it’s been around the block a time or two. How many remember that ‘Golden Opportunity Kit’ promo MPC had going back in the day?
I replaced the chin radar dome as the variant I’m building has the smaller, less bulbous version. Looks much better, IMHO.
Wish there was more to say about the paint scheme, but not much to say about Naval Haze Gray.
As for the decals, I wanted something other than the usual Soviet markings found on most Ka-25 build ups. I think Indian Navy markings do the trick rather nicely. I made the Hindu script on the tail boom on my computer and then printed it out on decal film. The rest of the decals came from the scrap bin.
I applied a few coats of Acryl semi-gloss clear.
Hope you all like it!
- I cut a section from each track guard and held the remaining guards in position with Blu-Tack for the spray painting
- The tank was painted using Xtracolor paints, X801 red/brown, X806 olive green and X29 light stone for the yellow
- I first sprayed the yellow, then masked up using Blu-Tack string and masking tape for the red/brown
- The masking was repeated for the olive green
- The red/brown and olive green were then faded by adding some gloss white to each colour
- The wheels were camouflage painted freehand
- The ambush scheme of olive green spots on the yellow and yellow spots on the red/brown and green were applied with a small brush
- The tactical number decals were then applied
- The entire model was then sprayed with Klear to protect the enamel paints from the oil washes
- For the washes I used burnt umber, raw umber and Humbrol dark earth all thinned about 10:1
- The wheels were then added, followed by the tracks and then the track guards, fixed on with super glue – finally the spare track links, towing cables and tools were detail painted and added on.
I think that fashions come and go within the modelling world. Techniques such as dry-brushing which were once popular seem to have gone the same way as the maxi skirt and (thankfully) the tank top. Something that is currently in vogue these days is the use of hairspray to introduce a water-soluble layer between two coats of paint so that the top coat can be removed with water, revealing the layer of paint underneath to represent chipping. I must admit that though I’ve experimented with this I’ve never really got on with the technique and the results I’ve had never seem to look as good as those achieved by other modellers.
Because of this I’ve experimented with a few alternatives. Here I’ve applied a green base coat to one of Trumpeter’s excellent KV1 tanks. Tamiya’s Nato Green was used over a dark green undercoat to produce the base colour. Following a picture I saw on the internet I then applied Tamiya Matt White toned down slightly with Buff to represent the temporary white overcoat.
To represent slight wear on the white areas I mixed a green colour that approximated to the same shade as the green base coat using Vallejo acrylics. These seem to be the best medium for doing this. Chipping was then done by dabbing this colour on with a sponge and using a fine brush in areas where things were difficult to reach or a specific effect was required.
This was done lightly to keep the effect quite restrained as I’m not a fan of heavy weathering on my models.
The turret number was applied using a home-made mask. The colour being slightly different from that used for the temporary whitewash finish to imply that it had been added at a different time.
This method of simulating chipping / wear on the white paint is exactly the same as that used to represent exposed metal under worn or chipped paintwork except that the colours used are different. I think that this may be a useful alternative to using hairspray or a chipping medium over a single base colour, but may not be a practical alternative when used over a multi-coloured scheme.
Hope you like it?
I often build one of these kits as a nice simple project in between more complex builds and often use them to try new techniques – well new to me anyway.
In this case I tried using oil paint as a filter. Having put on an acrylic base coat onto the model, this was sealed with a coat of Jonson’s Klear in preparation for an oil wash. However this darkened the paint alarmingly though I managed to partially restore the colour with an overall filter of green oil paint.
I believe that Trumpeter are about to release a second version of this vehicle which was used to test the idea of mounting two 76mm guns – this will probably be a nice restful project for me at some point in the next few months.
I have to say the kit was an absolute joy to do and am looking forward to doing the RUC Tangi conversion that they have just released. Hope you approve? Kind Regards
I’ve used a conversion of Resicast to make the Breda carrier.
Hope you like it?
o OOB of a quite decent kit
o wheel tires assembled from multi-layer parts (a very good design and seldom seen in this scale), depicting better defined tire treads
o busy assembly beneath vehicle but hardly be seen unless placing the vehicle upside down
o size of decals cannot cover two rear white-red panels being a major drawback of this kit
o NATO camo treated same way as previous Leopard 2A5.
Hope you all like it!