It’s finished in much the same way as other entries you’ll find in the SMN Subscribers’ Gallery.
I used: ABER PE (2 sets), ABER barrel, Friul tracks, resin radio.
The open vehicles are always challenging. But it came out great. I love all the details.
This project was a commission build for someone who has a real Stuart tank (as you do, G!). Most of the features of the real tank can be seen in this model. Like the name and numbers.
Hope you like it!
- This M-36 was built from the box, with the addition of stores from Tamiya, a couple of spare wheels and a scratch built Jerry can rack
- Just for a change I used the kit brush guards, but thinned them out a touch
- The model was painted using Xtracolor Olive drab as an overall coat, with Faded Olive Drab and faded olive drab faded a bit more, applied in a random pattern. Kit decals were used
- The model was then given a coat of Klear to protect the paint finish from the subsequent burnt umber oil paint wash
- When the wash was dry the model was sprayed overall with Humbrol Matt Cote.
The M-36 was developed to replace the M-10 tank destroyer which was becoming obsolete as its 3-inch gun had difficulty engaging Panthers and Tigers. The new turret with its 90mm gun was mounted on the M-10 chassis and designated Motor Gun Carriage M36.
These tank destroyers took part in the Battle of the Bulge during the winter of 1945.
All the very best, Roger B.
Formations tool set and resin figures, the extra tracks and spare wheel from the spares box; decals from Bison, very nice, very thin!
- This M4 Sherman was built from the box, with the addition of some stores from Tamiya, spare track for additional front armour and the traditional plank of wood
- I also added the extra armour plate to the hull sides, and an Eduard etched set of brush guards
- The model was painted using Xtracolor Faded Olive Drab as an overall coat, with faded olive drab faded a bit more, applied in a random pattern
- The Kit decals were used featuring a Sherman during the Ardennes offensive
- The model was then given a coat of Klear to protect the paint finish from a burnt umber oil paint wash
- I also assembled and painted the commander figure using Humbrol matt enamel paints.
All the very best, Roger
The crew were made from various bits from the spares box and the stowage is homemade from the spares box too.
I bought this kit on impulse (a birthday treat for me!) and because I wanted to do a straightforward build out of the box, without having to bother with kit corrections and improvements. Which, as I recall, is what I did and was very satisfied with the build process?
Aftermarket products are limited to MV lenses for the headlights and some of the accoutrements loaded on the engine deck. The figures are the old Dragon US Tankers, two having Hornet heads as I recall. The air recognition panel is wine bottle lead foil with Model Master Enamel # 1775, Fluorescent Red. Kit tracks were used as were kit decals for the markings with the exception of the stars for which a metal stencil was used.
Finishing and weathering followed the method outlined by Steve Zaloga in his Osprey publication “Modeling US Armor of World War 2”. I heartily endorse the method; it is not complex, relatively quick and results in a very presentable model.
The model took a Gold in its class and won the award for the Best American Military Subject at the Alberta AFV Model Show in 2010 (there were not a lot of entries in the class, to be honest)
Thanks for looking.
The conversion was fairly straightforward and rather simple. I sanded off all the detail on the loader’s hatch, and then glued it in place. The pistol port required cutting the raised wielded fairly to the turret away, then gluing the pistol hatch closed. I plugged the smoke port with sprue cut down to fit. All three areas were puttied with Squadron White putty, and then sanded smooth. To duplicate the cast surface I applied Tamiya Gray primer with the end of a wide stiff brush using plenty of primer. You can see the results in the one close up.
I painted the M4 with Tamiya gray primer, then a mix of Tamiya FX-62 Olive Drab and Tamiya FX-60 Dark Yellow. I have two different shades of this mix for color modulation and shading. Weathering was done with Dark Earth AK Interactive Wash, and various homemade filters. Then a final wash of Tamiya XF-57 buff for an overall dusty effect that also helped to blend in all the various shades.