Welcome to the Subscribers’ Armour Gallery C-I
Each submission has a ‘gallery’ of thumbnails which you can click on to see an enlarged image along with some short text describing the model – enjoy!
Clean up of the waste resin is quick and easy. I use a scalpel and a razor saw, mind your fingers! As with all my resin kits superglue is the way to go and construction can be completed in a hour or so. A quick blast of auto acrylic primer from a rattle can is enough to prepare the model for the next stage.
I usually use Humbrol or Revell enamels for the majority of the painting. I tend to mix a couple of greens together to get the finish I’m after, all mixed by eye and directly into the airbrush. A simple black disruptive pattern was then added.
As for weathering, I use a mixture of airbrush, oil washes and dry bushes to get the desired effect. Detail painting is picked out with Vallejo acrylics followed by a coat of matt varnish.
The only addition was aerials made from stretched sprue. There you have it, finished.
Hope you like it!
SS Pz.A.A.12, 12 SS Pz Division, Caen, France, June 1944.
All the vehicle required was a realistic paint/weathering finish applying to it, great fun.
I very much enjoyed the change from my steady diet of 1:48 aircraft. I hope you like the end result.
Built out of the box with just the crew figures added. Very clean as these tanks were, I believe, kept in very good condition. Based in Germany and depicted on manoeuvres.
All the best
I have always liked the aggressive, solid look of the Churchill tanks, having made a couple of Tamiya’s renditions in the past, so when HFV Club brought out their version of the Mk lll, I just had to make it. A happy hour spent on the internet resulted in finding a brief history of King Force and its part in the battle of El Alamein.
After completing the tank I looked around for figures to give some scale to the scene I had in mind, and low and behold, I found Master Box had started to issue sets of figures in action poses that would be perfect for my scene.
To give the effect of dust kicked up by the tanks, cotton wool was sprayed with a pale sand colour and glued down behind the tracks with photographer’s adhesive spray.
The model was sprayed with Xtracolor Olive Drab and shaded with the same paint with some white added.
I made up a thin wash from Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth and applied this in the panel lines, grooves and crevices and in the wheels.
Using an acrylic wash eliminates the need to spray on a protective coat of Klear over the enamel paint. A great little model.
All the best,
This a fairly old Italeri 1/35th scale kit but it still builds into a nice looking model straight from the box and makes a nice change from a lot of today’s super kits full of extra details that contain huge amounts of parts and multi options to choose from. I built it purely for that reason, to see how good a job can be done with a relatively old kit built more or less straight from the box without adding any extra detailing. I wasn’t concerned with the models accuracy and just wanted to open a box, build a model and paint it like I used to years ago, job done!I preshaded the model with Humbrol Matt 29 + 10% matt black then sprayed Tamiya desert yellow as the base coat followed by successive highlights of desert yellow plus white, Then used various pin washes of oils for shadows and stains etc. and painted scratches and chips with humbrol dark red brown + black. Tracks were painted dark chocolate brown and drybrushed with Citadel Boltgun metal. The Desert base is a bread board and the ground work is polyfilla sprinkled with crushed cat litter and sand, the reed grass is made from an old shaving brush, all painted with oil washes and enamel drybrushing. This simple model went on to win a local club competition 1st place and model of the year for the same club, a highly commended at Lincoln and Newark model expo and a Silver medal at IPMS Scalemodelworld 2004.
The two figures are from Verlinden and are my first venture into figure painting, which were painted with Vallejo acrylics. The figure at the rear should have had a spare mortar in his right hand but after being accidentally dropped, I drilled out the hand and replaced it with a Bren gun.
A picture frame was used for the base and the dark surface that can be seen showing through the rubble is a piece of adhesive floor tile.
The rubble was collected from the ground of a building site where rain water had run over slight depressions leaving the small particles of crushed brick and other fragments, but at the same time washing away the top lay of dust. The fragments were sieved and separated into two sizes. Firstly the larger particles were sprinkled by hand, then secured in place with Ballast Magic, a great product for this application and available from model railway shops. When dry small particles were added over the top hopefully to give a more natural appearance and more Ballast Magic was applied.
The two wooden crates and the jerry can came from my scrap box and the name plate from the local trophy shop, the wooden floor board section was of course from a well known fast food restaurant.
Hope you like it… John R.
Due to good quality of this kit, I almost haven’t got any problem with the assembly process. I only replaced tool clamps and made few scratch build with brass which you can see in my model before painting process.Before assembly process was completed, I applied mud at lower hull area. I made mud texture from wood filler.
First of all, I sprayed whole area with Mr Surfacer 1200, let the primer cured and then I preshade my model with dark brown acrylic. I left the model for a day then continued with basecoat. As usual I paint my basecoat with Tamiya acrylic. For dark yellow base color I mixed tamiya Dark yellow + Desert Yellow about 70:30 ratios. Then the second layer received sprayed of thin Dark Yellow mix with Buff, and then I added a bit of flat white for lighter color at the horizontal surface of the model.
For brown pattern I used Tamiya Red Brown mixed with buff at 90:10 ratios. After all dried, I sprayed green pattern with Tamiya Olive Green, and the next layer I sprayed with thin Tamiya Olive Green + Field Grey. I added more Field Grey for the next layer until I feel satisfied with my base color.
For muddy area, I sprayed with Tamiya Dark Brown + Flat Earth.
I left my model for a day once more to give the paint really cured.
This also gives me a time to check my paint job and I could correct it if I found any problem with my paint job. I sprayed future polish on the area which decals would apply; after I applied all decals I sprayed the models with satin varnish. This step also sealed the decals. Then I painted the details such tools, exhaust, tow cable, wood block and spare tracks.
Next step was filtering; I gave my model with yellow ochre filter. This step is important to toning down and blend the camo. After I felt satisfied with the filter, I sprayed satin varnish all over the model. When the varnish has dried, I applied faded effect with multi dot color of oil paints then blended with damp brush.
I left the model once more and moved to worked on the wheels and tracks. I glued the center wheels and track all together so I could pull off the tracks and wheels and painted them separately, even the road wheels could painted separately. The wheels and track has been given primer. So I started to spray them with Nato Black color for preshade it, then I sprayed the tracks with thin dark brown color, layer by layer. I used to paint my models in several thin layers.
After that, I sprayed all wheels with dark yellow mix with buff. After all has dried I sealed it with satin varnish.
The next day, I prepared to wash my model. First of all, I give thin wash of raw umber to all over model and then I gave pin washed with darker brown color to bring out the details.
After washed was finished, I create chipped paint and scratch with Vallejo and oil paint. I used two layers method for chipped paint combine with sponge method to give random effect; I also added rust here and there. I also added worn effect on grab handle, machine gun rail, and hatch by combination of dry brush with flat black and graphite powder.
For rusty exhaust, first I painted the exhaust with red brown, and then applied rust color pigment on it and blended with mineral spirit. After that, I mixed plaster, acrylic medium gel which I bought from local art store, water and pigment to create mud. I applied mud to all wheels and tracks. After the mud was dry, I applied more pigment on wheels and blended them with mineral spirit. To avoid monotonous appearance I applied various color of dark pigment onto wheels. After all pigment dried, I dry brush the tracks with metallic grey and steel. I also applied various color of pigment onto hull and turret.
The last step was adding splatter mud to the model.
To create splatter mud; I dip a brush to the mud mixture and blew it to the model with airbrush. I did it little by little; try not to overdo this effect.
Finally the big cat was done, and I brought it to the display at local hobby store.
It is the Model Victoria kit and it really is the best model I have ever made, the quality of the craftsmanship, not my model ability…
Far too modest as I’m sure you’ll agree… Geoff
The PzIII is the old Dragon-Model, build completely out of the Box. It’s coloured with Revell-Aqua-Color and finished with different weathering-techniques. The same for the Sdkfz251 – but it’s an old Revell-Model.
The Generator-trailer is 70% scratch – only the Tyres and the outer frame is from an old Quad-20mm Gun from Tamiya.
The Base is all made by myself. The Ground is a mix of Plaster and fine sand. The palm trees are made of sticks, wrapped with wire, tissue and Glue. The leaves are cut out of paper, glued with a wire and painted in different green colours.
The Figures are from Tristar & Dragon.
I hope you like it. It normally takes me 2-4 months to build a diorama. But stay tuned for further step-by-step updates.
You can see more on my Blog
Using the crew gear I “dressed” the model to look like an example seen in the movie. As only one figure was to be used I closed the remaining hatches as very little interior is provided in kit. Then it was down to painting and weathering the model to appear like Fury.
When I emailed some pics to client he was over the moon with finish, especially as he knows what he’s talking about being a serving tank commander in British Army.
The Gaz M1 car was a licence built version of the 1934 Ford Model B car. Powered by a 49 HP 3.3 4 cylinder engine. The Russians upgraded the vehicle with stronger suspension and wheels to cope with ‘Stalin’s asphalt’. Private motorists did not exist in the Russia of that time so they were for the use of officials, the military and the notorious NKVD.
Hope you like it?
The tank is modelled after the tank that was in Pz. regiment 204 of the 22nd Pz. Division, Crimea 1941-1942.
1:16 scale German Panzer 38t Tank built and painted with light weathering. Paints used are Krylon spray for base paint, Model Masters enamels, Tamiya acrylics and Mig powders and oil paint.
Thank you and happy holidays!
Just subscribed to your mag, and find it excellent. What a great idea.
The images attached are of a diorama that I have just completed. Five months in the making but most enjoyable. I have used, I think, 38 figures including two sets of the new Miniart British tank riders NWE.
Everything is constructed from light weight materials wherever possible. The background is hand painted using water based household paints (Dulux) and then enclosed in a 4mm acrylic case to keep it stackable and dust free.
The scene depicts elements of the 7th Armoured Div. crossing a Bailey bridge at the start of Operation Goodwood.
The bridge, owing to size restrictions is only a 1/4 of the length it should be.
Keep up the good work.
More pics on my Blog
Another not new kit but one which builds into a very nice representation of the real vehicle. Hope you like it?