More of our Subscribers’ amazing aircraft: M
I didn’t do much with the cockpit: kit instrument and side panel decals – fine as the canopy is down. I did buy a few aftermarket bits: Eduard Brassin Exhausts; Master Pitot tube.
My only gripe with this kit is the definite joint seam where Trumpeter have used the standard MiG 29-A nose, up to just behind the canopy then joined the newly moulded rear fuselage to the front its a good place to do that but mine was slightly out of alignment and had a small step where the two came together. Apart from that its trouble free.
There aren’t many schemes for this one and the box art is pretty much it!!
I decided to go down a different route and try this black basing I have read about and gave the whole thing a coat of Mr Paint Matt black primer and very nice it is too! This stuff is great, literally just a few minutes after laying this paint down you can go on and begin spraying so as the norm I started with the underside colour and sprayed the marbling effect so far so good then the lighter top colour so far so good then the next intermediate colour again with good results then the last colour proved a little to dark either that or I over did it but the marbling effect wasn’t as pronounced – well lost actually but as it all looked good I was more than happy with the results.
Hope you like it?
I’d like to show you my Kinetic Mirage 2000B I recently finished. It was mostly built straight from the box. The only additions were resin seats, exhaust and a metal pitot tube.
The model was painted with Gunze Aqueous colors.
The kit went together pretty well and the decals are surprisingly good. I really enjoyed this build and will probably build the single seater as well.
The only addition was etched seat belts.
Painted with Aeromaster & Tamiya Acrylics, & weathered with artist gouache.
The kit from Meng is very nice injected and a enjoyable build. I didn’t need any sanding work, the fit is awesome. I used Gunze Mr. Hobby Paints and salt technique for the chipping. The pre-shade made with yellow color and covered by IJN Green.
Some details of the aircraft:
Kit Review here: http://kitmaniac.com/site/?p=2162
Engine: Mitsubishi Ha-221 Ru | Power: 2,200hp
Wing span: 37ft 11 5/16in | Length: 37ft 4 13/16in
Loaded Weight: 9,921lb | Max Speed: 454mph at 32,810ft
A lot of models of Japanese aircraft are shown highly weathered and some almost devoid of paint. It seems that the assumption that the paint used was poor quality and thus had a short life is unfounded. The Japanese produced some very good paints – e.g. lacquers. in all probability it was a lack of primer, and the strong sun in Pacific theatre. The poor old Mavis was a bit lumbering and lightly armed – and thus rather vulnerable. There is a story of a Dogfight between a B17 and “Mavis”!!
Very nice kit – but possibly hard to find.
The kit goes together very well just like the others in this series. Hobby Boss has provided a metal floor to the gun bay which provides enough weight to keep the front wheel on the ground. The only issues that I had with the construction were with the tabs that located the cockpit inside the fuselage. I found that these had to be shortened slightly. Doing this made it much easier to get the fuselage halves together.
The only things that I added to the kit were some brake cables and the pitot on the left wing was replaced with telescoping rod and tube. On reflection the radar antennae look a little chunky and perhaps I should have replaced these as well to give this area of the model a more refined appearance.
I usually use oil paint as a wash to emphasise the panel lines on my aircraft models. In this case as an experiment I used dark grey pastel chalk. I think that the overall effect looks a little heavy in this case. I’ll certainly be experimenting with pastels in the future, but will maybe restrict their use to darker finishes.
Hobby Boss has covered a lot of the Me 262 variants with well produced, up to date kits that are accurate and easy to build. They are a great favourite of mine and I look forward to building some more of these in the future.
Like Trumpeter with its series of 1:35 Russian KV tanks, Hobby Boss seem to be attempting to cover every possible variant of the Me262 including the one-off prototypes. The A-1b variant represented an attempt to power the Me262 with BMW300 engines as a fallback in case of shortages of the Junkers Jumo engines originally intended for the aircraft. As it turned out the machine was very successful and was in some respects superior to the Jumo powered variants. Despite this no production was undertaken.
The Hobby Boss kits are excellent, being accurate, relatively cheap and easy to build and like the Trumpeter KV series I often use these as simple relaxing builds in between more complex projects. There is a great deal of internal detail included such as the canon bay and equipment in the rear of the fuselage. I found the kits much easier to deal with than the earlier Trimaster / Dragon offerings, they even supply a metal roof to the front undercarriage bay to add enough weight to keep the front wheel on the ground. The only things that I found needed care were the doors over the cannon bay (I think it’s actually easier to leave them open than close them) and the underside / rear of the wing to fuselage joint (this seems to be a common problem with a lot of Me262 kits).
There were a wide range of colour schemes applied to the Me262 and this series of kits could be used as the basis for a very interesting collection.
It is common knowledge that the Me 262’s are among Trumpeter’s best kits, so building one of these is not difficult.
But since Trumpeter also has the habit of providing you with lots of interior that will be invisible when the fuselage is closed, I decided to take the short cut and only to build what would be visible.
For the color scheme I picked one from a decals sheet of EagleCals (EC#96).
The building of the kit is posing no problems; the fit of most parts is really good.
3M Golden masking tape was used for the hard edge camouflage scheme; the paints are from the Tamiya and Gunze acrylic ranges.
The underside lighter blue color was sprayed first and on both sides of the fuselage quite high up. To bring extra life into the light blue, different colors are added to the base color and sprayed (very diluted) in many layers, the colors added can be very light grey, buff and flesh. To finish an extremely diluted mix of black and red brown is sprayed on some panel lines. Now the light blue area is masked (also on the sides).
On the topside we start with the green, but here we already mix with yellow, it does give a lighter and warmer shade, but you have to use enough yellow in the mix. Simple reason is that the pure green color will be used to go over the panel lines and randomly on the panels. Finish with a mist of the green to blend it somewhat together.
At this stage your paintwork can still (maybe I need to say have to) be a bit over the top, when you will have varnished the model a few times I a later stage these difference will be smoothed out.
After the green we continued with the brown, also the first layer was a mixed version of the later color, for the brown a mix with buff was applied first. Then the same sequence was followed to bring life into the brown parts. Once this was all done the masking tape was removed and on the sides the green and brown patches are sprayed.
For the red and blue band on the fuselage we first sprayed white a base color, then the yellow and to finish the red and blue. The model is vanished (Tamiya clear) for the decals, they performed very well. Decals are sealed with flat varnish from Vallejo.
Minor details (those items that always break if you put them on to early) are now glued on.
The almost last stage in the finishing is the use of oil paints around some panels to simulate paint chips; light grey can look good as aluminum without being too shiny. And to finish the model we use another layer of Vallejo flat varnish.
My only real gripe is that some of the Balkankruezes were slightly out of register, which I might try to rectify with some masking and light spraying. It forms the centrepiece of a refuelling diorama, hence the opened fuel filler on the starboard wing. Some of the pics are on a temporary base!
Best wishes, Andy W.
Thanks in advance for looking.
An old kit but still a great one to build. The only addition (apart from decals) was the Cutting Edge cockpit. I really enjoyed building this one as I had the chance to try different weathering techniques that I have wanted to try for a while. This includes hairspray (on the shock cone) and various oil shades (Burnt Umber & Paynes Grey, white and green) which sets off the model and gives it a more weathered look.
The model is all finished in ordinary kitchen foil!
Thanks for watching. Peter D.
Using the Italeri Mirage 2000 kit and built OOB with only an Eduard Zoom set for the cockpit, this was an enjoyable build of a classic 4th generation fighter.
I have finally seen it – the best aircraft scale model I have ever seen in all the years I have been modelling. This one popped up on Facebook and I was simply blown away – I mean, just look at the realism on offer here:
- restrained weathering overall
- paint finish just faded enough to be completely convincing
- panel line enhancing that is so often seen on WW2 fighters like the Mustang
- accuracy in the build with no meaningful defects visible to my eye
- decals or markings flawless – they may be painted on, who knows but they look painted and weathered to match the surrounding paintwork with care taken to run the panel line weathering through the markings
- blemish-free canopy with perfect frame painting.
I could go on but I won’t – just enjoy Artur’s end result, utterly inspirational to me and I’m sure many of you too.
Here are some notes from Artur…
- Tamiya 1:32 kit
- Serial: KH663 No 303 Sqn RAF
- Barracuda Studios cockpit upgrade and stencils
- Melius Manu masks
- KoTeBi World Models – the kit
- Szeroka5 – paint
- HGW belts
- Eduard photo etch parts, wheels resin
- Master gun barrels
Thanks Artur for agreeing to share your beautiful work.