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This was built as my 1 year in model making skills test. I absolutely love this kit and could happily build another 10.
The main paints used were Tamiya. Built out of the box with some modification to the wing and cockpit wall to show some of the internal structure.
Hope you like it!
I modified the standard kit by fitting the Fisher Centaurus engine and cowling. Paul Fisher wasn’t 100% sure it would fit this particular kit as it was designed for the RN version. There were a few adjustments required, but I’m pretty happy with it.
Paints used were Tamiya Fine White Surface primer. Mr Hobby Base White 1000 and Tamiya Chrome Yellow (spray can). The business end of the plane was airbrushed with Mr Hobby Hobbycolor acrylics. Metals were Vallejo Metalcolor and engine was detailed with Rowney oils over a Vallejo Metalcolor base.
Best Regards, Alan R.
This is the airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.1b. For this kit I didn’t use any decals but made my own masks instead. It was painted with Tamiya paints and weathered with oils.
Hope you all like it!
As many will know, the conversion is 99% scratchbuilt, created in collaboration with David Haggas, Nick Greenall and Dave Fleming who all provided technical information on every aspect of the conversion, Mal Mayfield who created the masks that allowed almost all of the markings to be airbrushed on, Tim Perry who created the patterns and vac-formed parts for the amazing ferry tanks that are fitted under the wings and finally, Haris Ali who vac-formed the canopies and laser-cut the wonderful base that the model sits on. Thank you all so much!
I hope that you like it! :)
First impressions on opening the box were very favourable, once I got past “Gosh, It’s Red!”. It is an experience that can only be likened to opening the box of the Hasegawa RAF Rescue Sea King. It’s rare for me to start a kit the day I bring it home. Most of them sit in the stash for a while. But this one went straight onto the production line. Two more boxes went straight into the stash, along with a selection of Xtradecal recent releases.
The build was pretty straightforward, but I did need a little filler at the wing roots especially underneath between the wheel wells and the intakes.
Since I was aiming for an out of the box Red Arrow, I decided to capitalise on that bright red plastic. As has been described in the review, the plastic surface is slightly textured, so I went over it lightly with fine glass paper first. After a good soapy wash and thorough drying, I sprayed thinned Revell no. 31 enamel direct onto the plastic. The result was a beautifully smooth satin finish. The rear portion of the tail fin was finished with Revell’s no. 51 enamel.
The decals are beautifully thin and conform very well to surface curves and details. Micro Sol was barely necessary. If there is a price to pay for the thinness of the decals, it is in a slight lack of opacity in the whites, but I think that they got the balance right.
There were a few near disasters along the way though…
Disaster number one was realising that in my eagerness to progress the build, I had forgotten to add any weight to the nose. What to do? Open the airbrake wide enough to take the weight? Maybe.
Next up, imagine my horror when I peered into the cockpit one day to see the front instrument panel had taken on the appearance of a badly corroded battery terminal! I think I must have been a little more liberal than intended with the cyano that held the front fairing in place. So out came the decal sheet from one of the two other Revell Hawks in my stash, the scanner and inkjet decal paper. Every cloud has a silver lining though, when I took the fairing off, it revealed a space big enough to conceal a lead fishing weight!
Disaster number three was mistaking part of the front undercarriage for a sprue entry gate and leaving it behind when removing the parts!
The final horror. I never quite got to the bottom of how this happened, but when the end was nearly in sight, I came home to find one of the main undercarriages broken. I think the moral of that tale was not to leave your pride and joy on the kitchen worktop beneath an over filled biscuit cupboard. This had to be drilled out and strengthened with wire.
I just use a pencil to add some highlights to the panel lines and work this subtly in and around the airframe with a cotton-bud.
Hope you like it… Graham M.
I drilled a small hole in the inside of the wingtip lights and filled these holes with red and green paint as appropriate to represent the bulbs.
The only issue I found with the model was a slight step on the front underside of the wing where it meets the underside of the front of the fuselage. The step was covered by the large air intake on the tropical version of the kit and so was not apparent. However, here I found it hard to disguise as filling and sanding would have eradicated the moulded detail. Clamps were used to hold the wing and fuselage firmly together while the glue set, in an attempt to reduce the appearance of the step. I have not heard of anyone else having problems in this area so I think that this was probably a problem with my inept construction rather than any shortcoming of the Airfix kit!
The model was finished with Mr Hobby paints which performed brilliantly and are now my favourites.
All in all this was a highly enjoyable build and I’ll certainly be building another – perhaps as a night fighter?
This an excellent kit which I found went together very well without any issues. The only additions that I made were some seat belts from an Eduard set as none are supplied in the kit.
I drilled a small hole into the inside surface of each of the wingtip lights using a 0.4mm drill (I found it easiest to do this while they are still on the sprue). The holes were then carefully filled with paint to represent the red and green bulbs).
The model was finished using one of the schemes available in the kit which represents a training aircraft used by the South African Air Force.
The finish was overall Alclad Aluminium, but note these aircraft were not left in natural metal but were actually painted in silver overall, so having panels of slightly different shades is not appropriate here (though it would probably look nice!).
Weathering was kept to a minimum as these aircraft were not used on the front line. Exhaust staining was added using pastel chalks. The panel lines were outlined using highly diluted raw umber oil paint. Some chipping was applied to the anti-glare panel using a silver pencil.
The aerial wire was made using Uschi Van Der Rosten elastic rigging thread (standard size) and the lead-in wire was made from a piece of wire rolled straight under a steel ruler and coloured to match with a dark grey marker pen.
I had masked the canopy with Tamiya tape and I first sprayed the frames with the interior colour. The Alclad was then sprayed over this, the intention being that the interior colour would be visible on the inside of the canopy. The interior colour is a little prominent for my liking so perhaps next time I’ll invest in some ready cut masks which would probably give a better finish.
Hope you like it.
Hope you all like it.
This kit was built straight from the box as this was a commission build. Like all my models lately, this one received a first layer of Alclad black primer.
Paint used is Gunze Aqueous which I spray in very thin, almost translucent layers. This way you can create several shades of colour without mixing paint. Some shading with lighter shades of the basic colours was done.
Kit decals were used over a coat of Future, followed by a wash of Mig Productions dark wash.
Final coat is Alclad matte coat.
René van der Hart
This kit fought me all the way but was worth the effort I think. She really captures the look of the Hurricane.
Regards, Gerry D.
It’s built out of the box, but the serials and station code were cut from Tamiya masking sheets and sprayed on.
I used Vallejo model air and Vallejo metal with Tamiya flat coat.
Hope you like, Kenneth M.
It is painted with Tamiya paints and weathered with oils.
This is my third model, it is the 1:48 Italeri Hawker Typhoon. I saw a picture of the aircraft “Sharky” so decided upon on that as the subject. I cut off many of the control surfaces and used these great resin pieces located in open and moved positions. I also tried Alclad2 natural metal finish prior to applying the camouflage pattern over the salt crystals. These planes did hard low level duty and took significant debris hits on all the leading edges and surfaces, so consequently Sharky is pretty chipped up.
Hope you all like her?
It does tend to get a bit forgotten by the bubble canopy version, which is a shame. The fuselage insert that Hasegawa supply to make either the car-door or the bubble top; lots of people criticise it, but I found that it fits very well with no filler needed. With some minor sanding and re-scribing, it blends into the fuselage well. Also, the Richard A Franks Typhoon book is a great modelling resource.
Hope you all like it?
Throughout I incorporated a comprehensive aftermarket Mk1 Design Detail set into the build as well as a set of Barracuda cast weighted resin wheels and a set of HGW Sutton Seat Harnesses.
I painted the Model using my preferred choice of trusty Tamiya Acrylics. To weather the model I used Windsor & Newton oils and highly diluted Humbrol paints of differing browns and green shades to weather the engine.
I finished the model in the Markings of MN666 piloted by Wg Cdr Charles Green.
She’s painted with Gunze and finished with a mixture of satin and matte varnishes. I only added harnesses and the ejection seat handles, as well as the modification of the Sidewinder.
It depicts an aircraft from Rota Air Base circa 1982. Hope you enjoy the pics.
Quite chuffed with it as the kit is a sod to fit (nose and engine intact area).
I used as reference a very beat up aircraft pictured in Normandy. In fact it was much more “used” than the one depicted here. I love the Typhoon – a short life but an extremely effective one!
The MDC kit as I recall had a slightly twisted fuselage and had to be heated to straighten it out. It was pretty ruggedly built and I think the kit reflects this in that there is not much superfluous detail. Even so it was not exactly a quickie as parts had to be cleaned and carefully lined up before cementing. I used a Revell canopy – it was just more convincing than the MDC one.
I mostly used armour techniques for this project in the painting. No pre shading though. I put a clean coat of each colour then broke it down with oil washes and specific weathering (leading edges of wings for example). It was more like painting a canvas with a lot of blending of colour.
I like the scheme from an aftermarket decal sheet (pretty sure it was an old Aeromaster decal sheet, sadly not now readily available).
Hope you like it?
This is the Cammett 1:32nd Scale Resin kit that includes the Mistel ‘flying-bomb’, take-off trolley and attachment points for the parent aircraft the Revel He-162. The additions I made include an Eduard cockpit set for the He-162 as well as detailing the kit supplied engine using wire card and scrap brass. The engine for the Mistel comes from a Trumpeter Me-262 and after cutting off the resin engine nacelle I built the engine bearers and detailed the engine in the same way as the He-162. Finally the Mistel never flew so this is how I interpreted a late war development aircraft to look. The He-162 colour scheme is genuine and a well documented photo is in many references.
This aircraft was captured by French Resistance Forces at Toulouse-Blagnac in September 1944 and repainted with Invasion stripes, French roundels and French colors on the rudder. Shortly afterwards it was transferred to the UK and again repainted with a red rudder, RAF roundels and a yellow “P”.
My model represents this British bird.
It is a built out of the box from the MPM kit, even the decals are out of the kit. The construction was typical for a short run kit. A bit of putty here and there, also around the canopy, which meant some precise sanding. I used the Eduard cockpit etched set, which included instruments and seat belts, well to be seen in the glasshouse cockpit. Montex masks eased the painting a lot. All the weapons were left off, as this was a captured bird for test purposes. The only tricky area was the fit of the main undercarriage, free interpretation of its fit to the wing and lots of superglue were needed. Otherwise a straightforward kit, unfortunately not available any longer, as the MPM brand is discontinued by Special Hobby.
Hope you all like her?
Vallejo Model Air acrylics were used to portray JV131 “E o L” as she appeared in June 1944, flying from HMS Emperor in support of D-Day operations. I sprayed the invasion stripes over the camouflage to try and reflect the real machine, but I think they turned out a little too perfect. Next time I’ll make them a bit rougher. The decals were a real treat to use, being of the usual Cartograph quality.
Weathering consisted of post-shading with a lighter hue of the base colours, followed by a water-based “sludge” wash. This was a fairly thick mix of washing-up liquid, Paynes Grey watercolour and a bit of water to help it flow which was then slapped onto the model. This was left to dry for half an hour or so and then wiped off to emphasise the surface detail. Exhaust staining was airbrushed with a highly thinned Black/Brown acrylic mix, with a bit of grey thrown into the mix too.
This was a highly enjoyable kit to build and finish and I hope you enjoy the finished model as much as I enjoyed making it.
- I built this model from the box, with just the addition of 1mm brass tube for the Cannon barrels
- Construction is straightforward but some care must be taken when attaching the wings to the fuselage
- I decided on the camo scheme after looking on the internet where there are some good images of proposed schemes for this aircraft
- The model was first sprayed overall RLM76. (Xtracolor)RLM 76 was then mixed with RLM 75 and sprayed over the outer wing panels and RLM 75 then sprayed in a mottle pattern
- The aircraft was then masked off and the area behind the jet engines sprayed Xtracolor Oily Steel
- The kit decals were used
- A coat of Humbrol Matt Cote sealed it all off.
Cheers for now, Roger
Really interesting scheme chosen by Dave here. His model is the excellent Revell kit that can usually be picked up for an incredibly reasonable price. Accurate masking and a flawless airbrush finish make his model stand out. Note Dave’s nice touch in adding the pilot’s ‘bone-dome’ to the cockpit sill. Presenting his scale models in an interesting, varied way is a true hallmark of the builder – nice work!
1/72nd scale kits are not normally “my bag” as Austin Powers might say, but in desperate need of a submission for the quarterly round of my local club’s competition and with insufficient time to complete a 1/48th scale kit, I picked this model up from Newark Air Museum’s shop. The kit is an absolute beauty and looks every bit a Hunter when complete, capturing the elegant curves and slender features that characterise Sir Sydney Camm’s finest creation. The kit is particularly well moulded and the panel line are crisp, consistent and perfect for holding onto the oil wash that I use to accentuate the lines during the weathering stage of the model’s construction. I enjoyed building this kit so much that I built another straight after it using the Royal Netherlands markings provided on the kit’s decal sheet and you can see that model elsewhere in the Gallery. The kit took me a week of evenings to complete and had no major flaws worthy of mention; any potential difficulties can be avoided by patient dry fitting of parts before they are eventually glued into place.The parts were stuck together using Ambroid Proweld, the best capillary adhesive bar none in my opinion and after preparing the surface for painting with Alclad’s grey primer, the model was finished with Hannants Xtracrylics XA1001 RAF Dark Green and XA1004 RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey. The wraparound scheme that I chose to adorn the kit was quite challenging as I use the ‘blue tack sausage’ method to obtain the demarcation between colours and for those of you unfamiliar with that technique, let me provide you with a brief explanation. After priming, the whole aircraft was sprayed with the camouflage grey colour and then with long thin ‘sausages’ of blue tack rolled out much like a child might roll out a plasticine snake, the demarcation lines of the camouflage green area were laid out on the model. The grey areas that were not to be sprayed were then protected with a heavy coat of liquid masking agent applied between the ‘sausage boundaries’ and once that had dried, the green was airbrushed on. Within a few minutes of the green drying to the touch (and using hands protected with surgical gloves), the blue tack and liquid mask are carefully removed and hey presto a lovely tight, but soft edge is revealed!This kit was finished using the stencil data provided on its own decal sheet in conjunction with the 12 Sqn markings and national insignia taken from Xtradecal sheet 72-046. All-in-all a thoroughly enjoyable, quick and satisfying build and a kit that can be used to produce a most attractive model in very short order.
Revell 1:72 scale
This kit was built straight from the box and with the exception of the mediocre ejection seat, the kit is a joy to build and paint. The painting process used to finish the kit is described in my other Hunter article elsewhere in the Gallery and as with the other kit, Hannants Xtracrylics paints were used (XA1001 and XA1004) and the underside was sprayed with a tin of Halfords Aluminium Primer. A simlpe wash of Raw Umber oil paint was used to weather the model, applied over a protective coating of Johnsons Klear and the flat finish was achived using Hannants Xtraflat varnish. The touches of detail that I employed to bring the model to life consisted of the streched sprue whip aerials, visible sticking out of the upper surface of the wing tips and the aircraft’s spine. The pitot tube is also stretches sprue but using the tappered section of the ‘stretch’ to better represent the pitot found on the real aircraft. The polished metalic effect on the pitot tube was achieved by rubbing SnJ Polishing Powder onto the bear plastic, which although not a very durable finish, is arguably the best metalic effect that can be achiveved on a model, especially for part that will not be touched once the model is complete.