More of our Subscribers’ amazing aircraft: H
I drilled out all the rivets just to add some interest and I think it adds a bit to the finished model.
Hope you like it…
The kit is well detailed, great fit, and poses no problems. Just be careful with the fragile frame that supports the engine cowls.
I built it OOB, just to enjoy the engineering of the kit (ok, I am lazy…) and I really liked the light blue colour of the plastic spues! It brought back a lot of childhood memories.
The only add-ons were the decals (Techmod, I think) and P/E seatbelts. I think paper or fabric seatbelts would be better than P/E.
It’s mounted on a round wooden base and the pilot is from PJ.
I wanted a really weathered model and when I found a colour profile of a heavily chipped Hurricane, I was on! But, I took it a bit further and I used a lot of sponging, heavy washes (especially on the undersides), local fading by airbrushing, pencils (for a first time) etc.
I hope you like the end result. Now, the Me109E is gonna be next, after I find Galland’s markings…
This was built as my 1 year in model making skills test. I absolutely love this kit and could happily build another 10.
The main paints used were Tamiya. Built out of the box with some modification to the wing and cockpit wall to show some of the internal structure.
Hope you like it!
As many will know, the conversion is 99% scratchbuilt, created in collaboration with David Haggas, Nick Greenall and Dave Fleming who all provided technical information on every aspect of the conversion, Mal Mayfield who created the masks that allowed almost all of the markings to be airbrushed on, Tim Perry who created the patterns and vac-formed parts for the amazing ferry tanks that are fitted under the wings and finally, Haris Ali who vac-formed the canopies and laser-cut the wonderful base that the model sits on. Thank you all so much!
I hope that you like it! :)
First impressions on opening the box were very favourable, once I got past “Gosh, It’s Red!”. It is an experience that can only be likened to opening the box of the Hasegawa RAF Rescue Sea King. It’s rare for me to start a kit the day I bring it home. Most of them sit in the stash for a while. But this one went straight onto the production line. Two more boxes went straight into the stash, along with a selection of Xtradecal recent releases.
The build was pretty straightforward, but I did need a little filler at the wing roots especially underneath between the wheel wells and the intakes.
Since I was aiming for an out of the box Red Arrow, I decided to capitalise on that bright red plastic. As has been described in the review, the plastic surface is slightly textured, so I went over it lightly with fine glass paper first. After a good soapy wash and thorough drying, I sprayed thinned Revell no. 31 enamel direct onto the plastic. The result was a beautifully smooth satin finish. The rear portion of the tail fin was finished with Revell’s no. 51 enamel.
The decals are beautifully thin and conform very well to surface curves and details. Micro Sol was barely necessary. If there is a price to pay for the thinness of the decals, it is in a slight lack of opacity in the whites, but I think that they got the balance right.
There were a few near disasters along the way though…
Disaster number one was realising that in my eagerness to progress the build, I had forgotten to add any weight to the nose. What to do? Open the airbrake wide enough to take the weight? Maybe.
Next up, imagine my horror when I peered into the cockpit one day to see the front instrument panel had taken on the appearance of a badly corroded battery terminal! I think I must have been a little more liberal than intended with the cyano that held the front fairing in place. So out came the decal sheet from one of the two other Revell Hawks in my stash, the scanner and inkjet decal paper. Every cloud has a silver lining though, when I took the fairing off, it revealed a space big enough to conceal a lead fishing weight!
Disaster number three was mistaking part of the front undercarriage for a sprue entry gate and leaving it behind when removing the parts!
The final horror. I never quite got to the bottom of how this happened, but when the end was nearly in sight, I came home to find one of the main undercarriages broken. I think the moral of that tale was not to leave your pride and joy on the kitchen worktop beneath an over filled biscuit cupboard. This had to be drilled out and strengthened with wire.
I just use a pencil to add some highlights to the panel lines and work this subtly in and around the airframe with a cotton-bud.
Hope you like it… Graham M.
I drilled a small hole in the inside of the wingtip lights and filled these holes with red and green paint as appropriate to represent the bulbs.
The only issue I found with the model was a slight step on the front underside of the wing where it meets the underside of the front of the fuselage. The step was covered by the large air intake on the tropical version of the kit and so was not apparent. However, here I found it hard to disguise as filling and sanding would have eradicated the moulded detail. Clamps were used to hold the wing and fuselage firmly together while the glue set, in an attempt to reduce the appearance of the step. I have not heard of anyone else having problems in this area so I think that this was probably a problem with my inept construction rather than any shortcoming of the Airfix kit!
The model was finished with Mr Hobby paints which performed brilliantly and are now my favourites.
All in all this was a highly enjoyable build and I’ll certainly be building another – perhaps as a night fighter?
This an excellent kit which I found went together very well without any issues. The only additions that I made were some seat belts from an Eduard set as none are supplied in the kit.
I drilled a small hole into the inside surface of each of the wingtip lights using a 0.4mm drill (I found it easiest to do this while they are still on the sprue). The holes were then carefully filled with paint to represent the red and green bulbs).
The model was finished using one of the schemes available in the kit which represents a training aircraft used by the South African Air Force.
The finish was overall Alclad Aluminium, but note these aircraft were not left in natural metal but were actually painted in silver overall, so having panels of slightly different shades is not appropriate here (though it would probably look nice!).
Weathering was kept to a minimum as these aircraft were not used on the front line. Exhaust staining was added using pastel chalks. The panel lines were outlined using highly diluted raw umber oil paint. Some chipping was applied to the anti-glare panel using a silver pencil.
The aerial wire was made using Uschi Van Der Rosten elastic rigging thread (standard size) and the lead-in wire was made from a piece of wire rolled straight under a steel ruler and coloured to match with a dark grey marker pen.
I had masked the canopy with Tamiya tape and I first sprayed the frames with the interior colour. The Alclad was then sprayed over this, the intention being that the interior colour would be visible on the inside of the canopy. The interior colour is a little prominent for my liking so perhaps next time I’ll invest in some ready cut masks which would probably give a better finish.
Hope you like it.
Hope you all like it.
This kit was built straight from the box as this was a commission build. Like all my models lately, this one received a first layer of Alclad black primer.
Paint used is Gunze Aqueous which I spray in very thin, almost translucent layers. This way you can create several shades of colour without mixing paint. Some shading with lighter shades of the basic colours was done.
Kit decals were used over a coat of Future, followed by a wash of Mig Productions dark wash.
Final coat is Alclad matte coat.
René van der Hart
This kit fought me all the way but was worth the effort I think. She really captures the look of the Hurricane.
Regards, Gerry D.
It’s built out of the box, but the serials and station code were cut from Tamiya masking sheets and sprayed on.
I used Vallejo model air and Vallejo metal with Tamiya flat coat.
Hope you like, Kenneth M.
I modified the standard kit by fitting the Fisher Centaurus engine and cowling. Paul Fisher wasn’t 100% sure it would fit this particular kit as it was designed for the RN version. There were a few adjustments required, but I’m pretty happy with it.
Paints used were Tamiya Fine White Surface primer. Mr Hobby Base White 1000 and Tamiya Chrome Yellow (spray can). The business end of the plane was airbrushed with Mr Hobby Hobbycolor acrylics. Metals were Vallejo Metalcolor and engine was detailed with Rowney oils over a Vallejo Metalcolor base.
Best Regards, Alan R.