More of our Subscribers’ amazing aircraft: H
This time again a first I guess – I have never seen a model with this pattern. If there is anyone who does, I will cord my jacket with respect.
Endless thanks to Haluk brother and Çetin teacher for the logistic support. But with a separate thank you, this goes to my dear brother Metin ÖZREK. For colour separation and paint pattern (camouflage transitions.. etc) hours of work, we finally got me pumped up and came up with this model… thank you and thank you… a thousand thanks 🙏🙏🙏
I did not do the cockpit glass masking. Directly painted model (working on some delicate work… ), cleaned the paint mess on the glass with car polish with a little brush and toothpicks. Also, the crane is my own production; we had to get it when it didn’t come out of the model.
We are happy to add one of our Turkish coat of arms to our collection. Looking forward to seeing many Turkish armour models, stay healthy… greetings and love.
Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Humbrol and Xtracrylix for the paints and Xtradecal decals.
Chris A. P
Kit: Wingnut Wings 32079
Oil paint weathering
Prop:oils over acrylic
Fuselage lozenge done the tedious way with multiple masking sessions. Over-sprayed with grey-blue then oil paints to weather.
Aviattic lozenge cut to fit from masks. Note the mix of 4 and 5 colour lozenge. Rib and edging tape cut from white backed matching decal. Upper wing centre section and tail part roughly matched to 5 colour lozenge.
Model Kasten rigging; Gaspatch and Properplane turnbuckles
As many will know, the conversion is 99% scratchbuilt, created in collaboration with David Haggas, Nick Greenall and Dave Fleming who all provided technical information on every aspect of the conversion, Mal Mayfield who created the masks that allowed almost all of the markings to be airbrushed on, Tim Perry who created the patterns and vac-formed parts for the amazing ferry tanks that are fitted under the wings and finally, Haris Ali who vac-formed the canopies and laser-cut the wonderful base that the model sits on. Thank you all so much!
I hope that you like it! :)
This is my Bae Harrier T.4 made from the 1:48 Kinetic kit.
The Hawk was built pretty much out of the box, with the exception of cutting the flap slats down to the scale length shown in the SMN full-size details and the addition of a Master pitot tube as the kit one was more like a pole for vaulting!
Paints used were Halfords white aerosol primer flatted with 3600 Micromesh underneath Hannants Xtracrylix Red Arrows Signal Red for the main scheme with Tamiya Light Grey used in wheel wells.
The off-white canopy bands were painted using a lightened Humbrol Linen acrylic sprayed on before masking for the airframe red.
Tamiya Flat white used for the underside Arrow touch up around the decals.
Tamiya Rubber black for the tyres and Molotow Chrome Paint Pen was used for the chrome undercarriage details and noselight reflector.
Alclad 2 metallic were used for the exhaust tailpipe and smoke fluid injectors.
Flory polishing sticks were used to get a gloss for the decal application, and where the blue fin decal gave some challenges but Micro Sol softening solution came to the rescue with some use of Hannants Roundel Blue to touch up edges. Next time, I will mask and spray the blue rudder area!
Post decaling, the model was sprayed with Alclad2 Light Sheen clear lacquer and I am pleased with the realistic level of gloss on the model using this method.
All in all, a great model, available around the £20-30 price point with a few minor tweaks can be completed as you see here and yes I have bought another one!
First impressions on opening the box were very favourable, once I got past “Gosh, It’s Red!”. It is an experience that can only be likened to opening the box of the Hasegawa RAF Rescue Sea King. It’s rare for me to start a kit the day I bring it home. Most of them sit in the stash for a while. But this one went straight onto the production line. Two more boxes went straight into the stash, along with a selection of Xtradecal recent releases.
The build was pretty straightforward, but I did need a little filler at the wing roots especially underneath between the wheel wells and the intakes.
Since I was aiming for an out of the box Red Arrow, I decided to capitalise on that bright red plastic. As has been described in the review, the plastic surface is slightly textured, so I went over it lightly with fine glass paper first. After a good soapy wash and thorough drying, I sprayed thinned Revell no. 31 enamel direct onto the plastic. The result was a beautifully smooth satin finish. The rear portion of the tail fin was finished with Revell’s no. 51 enamel.
The decals are beautifully thin and conform very well to surface curves and details. Micro Sol was barely necessary. If there is a price to pay for the thinness of the decals, it is in a slight lack of opacity in the whites, but I think that they got the balance right.
There were a few near disasters along the way though…
Disaster number one was realising that in my eagerness to progress the build, I had forgotten to add any weight to the nose. What to do? Open the airbrake wide enough to take the weight? Maybe.
Next up, imagine my horror when I peered into the cockpit one day to see the front instrument panel had taken on the appearance of a badly corroded battery terminal! I think I must have been a little more liberal than intended with the cyano that held the front fairing in place. So out came the decal sheet from one of the two other Revell Hawks in my stash, the scanner and inkjet decal paper. Every cloud has a silver lining though, when I took the fairing off, it revealed a space big enough to conceal a lead fishing weight!
Disaster number three was mistaking part of the front undercarriage for a sprue entry gate and leaving it behind when removing the parts!
The final horror. I never quite got to the bottom of how this happened, but when the end was nearly in sight, I came home to find one of the main undercarriages broken. I think the moral of that tale was not to leave your pride and joy on the kitchen worktop beneath an over filled biscuit cupboard. This had to be drilled out and strengthened with wire.
I just use a pencil to add some highlights to the panel lines and work this subtly in and around the airframe with a cotton-bud.
Hope you like it… Graham M.
These are of my most recent completion – the 1:48 Airfix Hawker Hunter F.6.
I have added a Quickboost ejector seat and used Xtradecal sheet X48192 for the 92 Squadron markings.
I painted the model with AlcladII lacquers on the undersurfaces and MRP lacquers for the camouflage colours. It was weathered with MiG panel line washes and final varnish coat was Vallejo Matt Varnish.
Thanks, Phil J.
Here’s the 1:32 Revell Hawker Hunter in F.Mk.6 guise. A really nice, simple kit to build and looks great in the larger scale. If you can get a cockpit set for it that will add a bit to your finished model and here I used the True Details resin tub and seat.
I drilled out all the rivets just to add some interest and I think it adds a bit to the finished model.
Hope you like it…
This is my take on N2358, featured in the well-known photo from 1940, OOB aside from the harness. The build was very straightforward. Insignia and code letters were masked and sprayed. The serial came from different sheets in the spares box, the first time I have made one up in this way. I’m pleased with the alignment, but its too high up on the fuselage. Lesson learned to properly consult the photos of the prototype!
A number of features are debatable. Apparently this aircraft originally carried the squadron code TP, which was painted over. I decided this had been done by hand in fresh paint. The result is perhaps too stark. I also decided that the underwing port roundel needed to stand out better against the black so gave it a white ring. I know that later in the year it would have had a yellow ring, perhaps no ring was applied originally? I only applied the black and white to the wings and not the fuselage based on what I think I can see in the photograph. I didn’t apply underwing stencils I thought they were likely overpaint and I didn’t have any in white, but I do wonder if there’s a ‘W/T’ near the end of the starboard wing. The photograph also shows a dark area on the bottom of the starboard undercarriage door. I don’t know what this was so have opted for mud, although the line looks very straight and the colour very dark so this may be incorrect. Finally in the photo the aircraft is stood on a wooden stand and I now think that this actually has a serrated front edge which I didn’t include.
Airfix 1:48 Hawker Hurricane Mk.I kit. Aside from some Eduard seat belts the kit was made more or less from the box.
I drilled a small hole in the inside of the wingtip lights and filled these holes with red and green paint as appropriate to represent the bulbs.
The only issue I found with the model was a slight step on the front underside of the wing where it meets the underside of the front of the fuselage. The step was covered by the large air intake on the tropical version of the kit and so was not apparent. However, here I found it hard to disguise as filling and sanding would have eradicated the moulded detail. Clamps were used to hold the wing and fuselage firmly together while the glue set, in an attempt to reduce the appearance of the step. I have not heard of anyone else having problems in this area so I think that this was probably a problem with my inept construction rather than any shortcoming of the Airfix kit!
The model was finished with Mr Hobby paints which performed brilliantly and are now my favourites.
All in all this was a highly enjoyable build and I’ll certainly be building another – perhaps as a night fighter?
This is every bit the equal to the Spitfire kit in my opinion despite its age. I have built pretty much OTB but I replaced the instrument panel with an Airscale upgrade and the original decals after 50 years were not up to much, so I replaced them with Techmod…. probably would have been better off with the originals TBH as the Techmod items pretty much disintegrated at the sight of water. I’m sure many here could do a much better job than me but even my limited skills have turned out something that looks fine on the shelf next to my Spitfire.
Paints are from the excellent MRP range.
This is my Hurricane Mk.I, 1:24 by Airfix. I had this in my stash since the 80s. Back then, these kits were very hard to find in Greece and my older cousin bought it for me, in Sweden, and gave it to me. So, I dedicate it to him, since he got me into modelling when I was much younger.
The kit is well detailed, great fit, and poses no problems. Just be careful with the fragile frame that supports the engine cowls.
I built it OOB, just to enjoy the engineering of the kit (ok, I am lazy…) and I really liked the light blue colour of the plastic spues! It brought back a lot of childhood memories.
The only add-ons were the decals (Techmod, I think) and P/E seatbelts. I think paper or fabric seatbelts would be better than P/E.
It’s mounted on a round wooden base and the pilot is from PJ.
I wanted a really weathered model and when I found a colour profile of a heavily chipped Hurricane, I was on! But, I took it a bit further and I used a lot of sponging, heavy washes (especially on the undersides), local fading by airbrushing, pencils (for a first time) etc.
I hope you like the end result. Now, the Me109E is gonna be next, after I find Galland’s markings…
This model was made from the Airfix 1:48 Hawker Hurricane Mk. 1 (Tropical) kit.
This an excellent kit which I found went together very well without any issues. The only additions that I made were some seat belts from an Eduard set as none are supplied in the kit.
I drilled a small hole into the inside surface of each of the wingtip lights using a 0.4mm drill (I found it easiest to do this while they are still on the sprue). The holes were then carefully filled with paint to represent the red and green bulbs).
The model was finished using one of the schemes available in the kit which represents a training aircraft used by the South African Air Force.
The finish was overall Alclad Aluminium, but note these aircraft were not left in natural metal but were actually painted in silver overall, so having panels of slightly different shades is not appropriate here (though it would probably look nice!).
Weathering was kept to a minimum as these aircraft were not used on the front line. Exhaust staining was added using pastel chalks. The panel lines were outlined using highly diluted raw umber oil paint. Some chipping was applied to the anti-glare panel using a silver pencil.
The aerial wire was made using Uschi Van Der Rosten elastic rigging thread (standard size) and the lead-in wire was made from a piece of wire rolled straight under a steel ruler and coloured to match with a dark grey marker pen.
I had masked the canopy with Tamiya tape and I first sprayed the frames with the interior colour. The Alclad was then sprayed over this, the intention being that the interior colour would be visible on the inside of the canopy. The interior colour is a little prominent for my liking so perhaps next time I’ll invest in some ready cut masks which would probably give a better finish.
Hope you like it.
Here’s my Airfix 1:24 Hawker Hurricane MKI using aftermarket decals of No. 303 Polish Sqdn, September 1940 and some seat belts. Other than that, pretty much out of the box.
Hope you all like it.
This kit was built straight from the box as this was a commission build. Like all my models lately, this one received a first layer of Alclad black primer.
Paint used is Gunze Aqueous which I spray in very thin, almost translucent layers. This way you can create several shades of colour without mixing paint. Some shading with lighter shades of the basic colours was done.
Kit decals were used over a coat of Future, followed by a wash of Mig Productions dark wash.
Final coat is Alclad matte coat.
René van der Hart
This kit fought me all the way but was worth the effort I think. She really captures the look of the Hurricane.
Regards, Gerry D.
I finally got round to taking fresh photos of the Fisher Sea fury T.20. It is done in the scheme of WG655 as it may have looked after two harsh years in the Northern Ireland weather, (1954-56 RNAS Eglinton, GN for HMS Gannet).
It’s built out of the box, but the serials and station code were cut from Tamiya masking sheets and sprayed on.
I used Vallejo model air and Vallejo metal with Tamiya flat coat.
Hope you like, Kenneth M.
Numerous scratch-built items were also added to the model. These included: all of the undercarriage units plus their bays & doors/covers, the cockpit interior, the engine intakes & compressor fan, the spin-chute housing, the exhaust nozzles, fairings & heat deflectors, the windscreen and the canopy rail, the underwing pylons and the pop-up, emergency generator. To complete the display, I also added a scratch-built crew access ladder.
The model was painted using Tamiya Lacquers and weathered using a variety of oils & washes. All of the markings are home designed and printed decals.
The model was awarded Gold in Class 14 (1:48 aircraft conversions) at Scale ModelWorld 2022.
This is a Fisher 1:32 Sea Fury which I have had in my stash for some time but never had the confidence to take on the mad paint job. Having used my airbrush previously only as a spray gun I was daunted by the shading on the cowl and phasing into the decals. Fortunately attending the recent Scale Modelling Now Workshop set that concern to right so I had a bash at it!
I modified the standard kit by fitting the Fisher Centaurus engine and cowling. Paul Fisher wasn’t 100% sure it would fit this particular kit as it was designed for the RN version. There were a few adjustments required, but I’m pretty happy with it.
Paints used were Tamiya Fine White Surface primer. Mr Hobby Base White 1000 and Tamiya Chrome Yellow (spray can). The business end of the plane was airbrushed with Mr Hobby Hobbycolor acrylics. Metals were Vallejo Metalcolor and engine was detailed with Rowney oils over a Vallejo Metalcolor base.
Best Regards, Alan R.
The kit was painted using MRP throughout. Wheel chocks made out of plastic card.
The kit comes with resin details for the cockpit and some very nice replacement weighted wheels and tyres. A nice addition is the open cannon bay for the starboard wing, which takes a bit of work to fit snuggly but is worth the effort in the end.
The Tempest is bigger than you think so make plenty space on your shelf for display.