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Each submission has a ‘gallery’ of thumbnails which you can click on to see an enlarged image and read the short text describing the model – enjoy!
This is a Williams Bros 1:32 kit, with scratch built undercarriage and associated fuselage mods. It has Lone Star Models Resin Interior, plus some further detailing. Paints are Mr Hobby Acyrlics. Vallejo Metal Color and Daler Rowney Oils. Prop decals were found in the spares bin.
Best Regards, Alan R.
Thanks for publishing my model.
I made this kit many years ago and have just constructed the diorama to display it in.
Hope you like it, all the best .
Alclad White Aluminium was used to represent the High-Speed Silver underside, which was masked off before Tamiya RAF Dark Green and Dark Sea Grey were heavily thinned with isopropyl alcohol and sprayed freehand over the top. Both colours were also mottled with very thin lightened and darkened mixes of the original base colours to suggest a weathered and interesting surface. After sealing the decals with Johnson’s Klear, Xtracolor Matt Varnish was sprayed in multiple thin coats over the top to finish things off.
I was delighted to win this for only about £20 on eBay, good value I’d say, confirmed on opening the box. Am I alone in savouring the moment of opening up a new kit?
Anyway, there was a real solidity and weight to the mouldings in this kit, it felt somewhat more like a resin kit (not that I have tackled many of these) The parts fitted together well, without too much call for filler. But I wasn’t convinced that I would be able to hide that vertical fuselage joint behind the wings allowing the engine to be displayed (which is a bit gimmicky to my mind) … or should I just glue it shut?. After a bit of agonising over this decision I decided to go with it open. To improve the closure of this joint I decided to try some of those ‘micromagnets’ that I read about on this magazine (coincidentally in the Kinetic Sabre Build where strangely there was no mention of this join and the engine). I don’t think they were strong enough for this purpose though. In the end it just took a shim of plastic card inside the forward fuselage section to tighten up the join.
Kit code FKM 72016
(60 USD resin kit, Oct2012)
The Coandă-1910, designed by Romanian inventor Henri Coandă, was the first full-size attempt at a jet aircraft. Built as a sesquiplane, it featured an experimental aircraft engine which Coandă called the “turbo-propulseur,” a centrifugal compressor propulsion system with a multi-bladed rotary fan situated in a duct and driven by a conventional piston engine. The unusual aircraft attracted attention at the Second International Aeronautical Exhibition in Paris in October 1910, being the only exhibit without a propeller, but the aircraft was not displayed afterward and it fell from public awareness. Coandă used a similar turbo-propulseur to drive a snow sled, but he did not develop it further for aircraft.
Decades later, after the practical demonstration of motorjets and turbojets, Coandă began to tell various conflicting stories about how his early experiments were precursors to the jet, even that his turbo-propulseur was the first motorjet engine complete with fuel combustion in the air stream. He also said that he had made a single brief flight in December 1910, crashing just after take-off, the aircraft destroyed by fire. Two aviation historians countered Coandă’s version of events, saying there was no proof that the engine had combustion in the air stream, and no proof that the aircraft ever flew.
To put also a vehicle on the base plate came during the build.
The Tamiya kit is a beauty, it was built just OOB with the addition of homemade seat belts. The only critical point during the build is that the wings attachment is not very strong, so be careful not to break that.
I normally use Tamiya and Gunze acrylic paints for spraying, Vallejo for brush painting. The paints I use for spraying are directly diluted in the bottle with Tamiya thinner (yellow cap) and some extra Tamiya gloss varnish.
To get some lighter and darker variations of the basic colors you have to mix them, you can use white and black but also flesh and on the bleu orange.
Then gloss varnish and the decals, sealed with another coat of varnish.
The final weathering is done with oil paints, to finish with a coat of matt varnish.
The vehicle is also Tamiya; the building and painting sequence was the same as with the Corsair.
For the base I used plaster on a piece of wood, before the plaster was completely dry I added the sand, the small stones and here and there some grass. The bigger parts are pushed in and glued with white glue. Then the base was sprayed with different sand colors, later some stones are highlighted with the brush using really different tones and colors (i.e. very diluted light blue).
The last step is to bring it all together on the base plate.
Almost all weathering is done using pastel chalks – the dust applied dry with a small flat brush.
Hope you like it?